Swedish Mountains – Helags Massif & glacier

Helags – a Gem Among the Swedish Mountains

Hiking in the Swedish mountains has the ability to quieten the soul, it’s like stepping into another world and finding an inner harmony. Every cell in the body simultaneously calms down, yet awakens at the same time. Helags mountain range is no different yet offers an added bonus; this region of the Swedish mountains offers the chance to see Sweden’s only arctic predator – the Arctic Fox.

Leaving the parking lot, a light breeze rustles the leaves of the birch trees and carries the faint scent of the seasonal flowers in their bloom. Summer arrives late in these mountainous regions of Sweden and the pathways up the mountain are framed with a bouquet of various plants, some even suitable for medicinal treatments.

The surrounding forests shields us from whatever direction the wind blows and after a short walk we arrive at a sandy beach near a lake called Kesusjön. From this vantage point we get the first glimpses of the frozen giant ahead of us, the gem among Swedish mountains; Helags. The enormous expanse with the characteristic horse shoe, blue coloured glacier. The glacier is the southernmost glacier in Sweden, but in the last 65 years has shrunk by a third in its size. It still remains imposing as ever as it looms like a postcard in front of us. Before continuing, it’s worth enjoying the break in the wild gardens at Kesudalen, together with the chance to tuck into waffles, soups and other local delicacies over the summer peak season.

A Traditional Swedish Mountain Station

The paths winds itself out of the forests into the thinning line region as we climb higher. The climb is no match for the path that has over hundreds of years, ground its way under people’s feet. Before then it was the reindeers that forged the pathways that even today still are the nomads in the Swedish mountains. A handful of the hikers we meet break the typical image of hardened outdoors folk; grandparents taking their four year old grandchild on a day trip, a family with young boys who prefer running around the slopes, bearing reindeer horns like discovered treasures they found littered along the mountain.

At 1000 meters above sea level, on the plateau, lies the Helags mountain station, first built in 1897 and later expanded with additional cabins. It was intended to serve as a base for climbers before heading up to the top of Sylarna and Helags. These days the station bustles with life with all sorts of visitors, from those on an Arctic fox safari or winter alpinists hunting the quintessential Swedish mountain top.

Summiting the Helags Mountain

The summit of Helags provides the essence of what the whole area and the Swedish mountains is about. It’s easy enough to climb, yet provides enough of a challenge that makes the view from the top so worth it. The summit proudly towers over the smaller surrounding peaks, deceptively easier to reach despite its height or profile. Leaving the base at 1000 meters above sea level, the climb around the top of 1,796 metres takes around 4 hours over rocky terrain, while never being too steep. So there is no need for proper climbing gear.

National Geographic has placed the Swedish mountain Helags on its list of the 10 Best Artic Touring Peaks, stating the diversity of its nature and culture as the key attraction. The area has been used by the Sami and as traditional reindeer grazing for eons and the chance of bumping into a reindeer on a hike or while skiing in these terrains is almost guaranteed. It makes for picturesque photography, catching the silhouette of a mother and her calf against the stark blue skyline. Be mindful not to disturb them, after all you are visiting in their mountain territory.

Wildlife in the Swedish Mountains – Arctic Foxes

The best is kept till last. A tour to the arctic foxes secret den. The den is pointed out by the wilderness guide. “Look there” he points towards a drowsy looking pup who clumsily scratches his ear with his hindquarters. Our hearts melt as are enthralled by the sight of two more foxes, adults, who bound their way over the flowering mountainside to join the pup.

The name “Helags” stems from the old Nordic word meaning “holy”. It’s not hard to imagine how the name came to be. Regardless if you are religious or not the Swedish mountain Helags touches the soul deeply.