A Meditative Snowshoe Tour in the Vemdalen Mountains

Snowshoeing in the Winter Wonderland of Vemdalen

A sunrise in wintery January is nothing short of enchanting. The depth of the colour spectrum is simply astounding, the light in the west first changes from a deep blue to shades of cerise and pink as the golden yellow sun starts rising in the east. The January sun is tired and hangs low on the horizon but radiates on the peaks of the surrounding Vemdalen mountains. Direct shafts of light catch the ice crystals and the reflections make you feel like you are being surrounded by millions of diamonds. This is without doubt the best time of the day to be outdoors on a snowshoe tour and I remain captivated by the timeless magic of the sunrise.

Snowshoes are a perfect alternative for those who want to head into the mountains in winter, but are unaccustomed to having a pair of skis strapped to their feet. The wide surface area of the snowshoes allow one to walk over deep snow without sinking in too far into the soft snow and the lull in tempo one has on a snowshoe tour provides the perfect opportunities to stop for a coffee break. We head over to a felled tree stump and whip out the thermos and pour the steaming hot coffee. I wrap my hands around the mug and let the warmth seep through my hands. This is therapy to just sit in silence staring at the sun, meditating, absorbing the strength and peace the surroundings provide.  A herd of reindeer who have long taken notice of us trot off towards Bräckvallen as I pack the thermos away and continue the walk.

Swedish Waffle Houses

We have planned to visit the Samevistet waffle house along the way and we follow a marked trail, used for hiking and skiing, westward over the plateau between Slättfjället and Storhågnafjället directly towards the beautifully shaped Skruvfjället. In the Swedish mountains it is an old tradition to open up the shielings in winter and serve waffles to skiers passing by. They may even be cooked over open fire or on an old wooden stove since there is seldom electricity in these small old wooden houses. A few skiers pass by and the ski resort of Vemdalen has woken from its slumber, including the anticipated waffle house. A mini brunch of a waffle with the quintessential cloudberry jam is snaffled up in the sunshine streaming in through the balcony window. A short walk along the way we stop at an old shieling that was used in summers long ago for grazing of livestock, a fascinating piece of history that has been well preserved.

The Perfect Base for a Winter Adventure – Storhogna Högfjällshotell & Spa

With such short daylight hours we make our way back over the mountains towards the Storhogna Högfjällshotell & Spa and enjoy yet another cup of coffee in the exotic indoor “winter garden”. The hotel is perfectly suited as a base to head out on winter adventures with a maze of marked trails of all distances to follow. Stick to trails marked with a red wooden cross, which provide extra security if the weather should turn. The Samevistet waffle house lies 3.5km from the parking and hotel and is a perfect beginner’s tour. Extend the length of the snowshoe tour and head towards the Jaktstugan for a second waffle of the day. One way trips are possible thanks to a snowcat that operates at set times during the day. An alternative full-days tour is to head via Bräckvallen and Jo-Ols-Karivallen, which combines physical adventure and historical storytelling across the five smaller farmsteads and cabins for visitors. A return trip to the hotel over the open mountain terrain totals 19 kilometres in distance.

Hiking with Snowshoes

Snowshoes were originally essential items for hunting or working in forest in the winters. It’s an antiquated form of transport that has seen a resurgence in recent times. The first snowshoes were made of wooden frames and leather straps. Modern day snowshoes are made of lightweight aluminium or plastic and contrary to their invention, are almost exclusively used for recreational purposes. Snowshoes are suitable for both young and old and require a little bit of getting used to. Users can fasten their heel or have them loose, depending on preference. Walking takes on a new form as you have to expand your stance to accommodate the wide profile of the snowshoes and waddle as you go, much like a penguin walks.