Climbing Sweden – an Adventure Among the Clouds

The stone face I’m holding onto is warm, below me, the canopy of branches is silent and slowly rustles in the warm Swedish summer breeze. The atmosphere is silent apart from the occasional climbing command “Belay on”, “Climbing”, “Slack”. Stuguberget is probably the most popular climbing spot in Jämtland Härjedalen, Sweden. A collection of nine interjoining rocks, located besides a glittering river that attracts climbers from near and afar. Many climbers claim this to be THE place for climbing in Sweden.

Klättervägg i Stugun | Foto: Anette Andersson

Climbing While Basking in the Swedish Sun

The choice of climbing at Stuguberget in the Swedish village Stugun varies and the spot is suitable for all levels of climbers, with climbs from half a rope length to the longest climb, measuring approximately 80 metres. Some of the climbs are secured by a top rope, but generally require visitors to bring their own gear. The rocks are created of various composites, consisting mostly of a quartzite and granite that is situated in a southerly direction. This means that the rock face basks in the sunshine for most of the day. The area is surrounded by Swedish pine forests which forms a pleasant and relaxing atmosphere for climbers.

The rocks in Stugun in Sweden were first open up for climbing in 1975 when a team attempted two climbing routes up the largest of the imposing rock faces. One team eventually ascended to the top and named the area Myrsten. It took another two years before the narrower and tougher compact face was ascended, but eventually it was conquered and nowadays there are over 100 different climbing routes spread out across the rocks.   

Rock climbing is not only a sport, but a way of life, you become absorbed into the climb as time stands still. It’s just you and the rock that you are holding onto, full focus of keeping muscles still, plotting where to place your next grip or where your feet will have the best purchase for the heave up. Climbing requires focus, meditatively eliminating every other thought in your mind and becoming one with the wall. Rock meets flesh, meter by meter ascending the obstacle ahead. Sometimes you meet a crux and it requires all your might, mentally and physically to cross the obstacles on your climb. Sometimes you fail and must start again. Or it leads to success, the internal reward being the euphoria and adrenaline rush of the ascent. Successfully, standing at the top, and the wonderful feeling having defeated the rock which is now under you.

There are a total of nine rock faces to climb in Stugun in Sweden, with the Vita and Musväggen being the easy, yet varied enough for newbies, children or ring rusty climbers. It is also secured at the top by a rope, meaning that climbers don’t always need to bring their own equipment. The Lilla Berget is the hardest of the trails and the Stora trail is the longest, totalling 80 meters in height. The rest of the climbs vary between 10-50 meters.

Utrustning för klättring, Stugun | Foto: Anette Andersson

Picnic Areas & Family Adventures

The lush greenery of the surrounding forests, together with wooden benches, tables and fireplaces makes for a perfect place for a picnic with the family, regardless of whether the family are climbers or not. A walk up the top of Stuguberget is an adventure in its own right, with its dancefloor that was built in the early 1900’s. The dancefloor was however, built too close to the edge and after a few near misses, eventually was shut down. Nonetheless, the summit still has magnificent views of the scenery and the level ground makes a great tent spot, along with any other flat bit of ground leading up to the peak.

Fikapaus under klättring, Stugun | Foto: Anette Andersson
Take a Swedish "fika" break. | Photo: Anette Andersson

General Information about Climbing in Sweden

  1. Climbing was born out of alpinists need to practice climbing higher alpine mountains. It was introduced in Sweden in 1883 with the ascent of mount Kebnekaise (Swedens highest mountain).
  2. Trails are pre-determined routes to the top of each face. Each trail has different levels of difficulty.
  3. Top Roping secures climbers with a rope from above and the rope is fed through a system of anchors and attached to a belay at the foot of a wall.
  4. Traditional climbing (Trad Climbing) is a form of climbing without fixed anchors and bolts. Climbers place removable protection such as camming devices, nuts, and other passive and active protection that holds the rope to the rock (via the use of carabiners and webbing/slings) in the event of a fall and/or when weighted by a climber.
  5. To Lead is the climber who climbs first and is called the Lead Climber, who sets anchors up a trail.
  6. To abseil, or also called rappel, is a controlled descent of a vertical drop, such as a rock face, using a rope down the face.

Take a Climbing Course in Sweden

For those curious about climbing, it is worth taking a climbing course in Sweden and learn the basics of climbing. The best courses are ones that take place outdoors and help you familiarise yourself with the elements in connection to climbing. The next step is then to find a group of climbers or someone interested in climbing and start climbing and getting the feel for the sport at your own tempo. The Swedish Climbing Association webpage has tips and information about where to find local climbing clubs and courses:

Utrustning för klättring, Stugun | Foto: Anette Andersson
Learn the basics on a climbing course in Sweden | Photo: Anette Andersson





Spring, Summer, Autumn


Nine different rock faces and hundreds of different trails. Approx. 30 trails are sport trails, the rest are traditional. Level of difficulty: 3- to 8+


At the village of Stugun. Take Route 87 from Östersund, westerly for 51kilometer. The climbing rocks are 1 km from the town centre. Ample parking and a short walk to the climb. Map at the parking.


A guide to the climbs are available Stugun:


Pine forests and grassy plains. Tenting available. Picnic areas, wind shelters and outhouse available.


No restaurant at the rocks so take with your own picnic or food. The village of Stugun has a shop, cafe, restaurant and petrol station.


Climbing equipment, water and food. First aid kit. Warm jacket/Rain Jacket. Mosquito Repellent, especially on warm days with no wind. Climb according to weather.


The area around the climbing wall Gömda and Glömda have nesting birds of prey and as a result the wall is closed during spring till July 15.


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